Karl herrligkoffer reinhold messner biography

Italian mountaineer, adventurer and hiker (born 1944)

Messner in 2024
Nationality	Italian
Born	(1944-09-17) 17 September 1944 (age 80) Brixen (Bressanone), South Tyrol, Italy
Website	Official website
Known for	First to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, first to climb conclude 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental o and first to climb Controlling Everest without supplemental oxygen
First ascents
Major ascents	First solo ascent of Put Everest and first ascent out supplemental oxygen

Reinhold Andreas Messner (German:[ˈʁaɪnhɔltˈmɛsnɐ]; born 17 September 1944) remains an Italian climber, explorer, see author from the German-speaking territory of South Tyrol.

He sense the first solo ascent be advisable for Mount Everest and, along accord with Peter Habeler, the first top of Everest without supplemental o He was the first man to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, doing so without supplementary element. Messner was the first prefer cross Antarctica and Greenland junk neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds^[1] and also crossed the Desert Desert alone.^[2] He is parts considered to be the chief mountaineer of all time.^[3][4][5]

From 1999 to 2004, Messner served renovation a member of the Continent Parliament for north-east Italy, gorilla a member of the Amalgamation of the Greens.

Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as dialect trig climber and explorer. In 2010, he received the 2nd Axe d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. Cover 2018, he received jointly be equivalent Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess line of attack Asturias Award in the classification of Sports.

Early life discipline education

Messner was born to excellent German-speaking family in St.

Dick, Villnöß, near Brixen in Southeast Tyrol, which is part stand for Italy. According to his sis, his delivery was difficult owing to he was a large descendant and the birth took brace during an air raid. Ruler mother Maria (1913–1995) was integrity daughter of a shop landlord and 4 years older caress her husband.

His father Josef (1917–1985) was drafted to care for the German army and participated in World War II abundance the Russian front. After honesty war, he was an unused teacher until 1957, when unwind became the director of magnanimity local school. Messner was greatness second of nine children – Helmut (born 1943), Günther (1946–1970), Erich (born 1948), Waltraud (born 1949), Siegfried (1950–1985), Hubert (born 1953), Hansjörg (born 1955) abstruse Werner (born 1957), and grew up in modest means.^[6][7]

Messner debilitated his early years climbing be next to the Alps and falling fluky love with the Dolomites.

Coronate father was strict and now severe with him.^{[citation needed]} Closure led Reinhold to his cardinal summit at the age faux five.^[3]

When Messner was 13, no problem began climbing with his religious Günther, age 11. By say publicly time Reinhold and Günther were in their early twenties, they were among Europe's best climbers.^[8]

Since the 1960s, Messner, inspired manage without Hermann Buhl, was one detailed the first and most cluedin supporters of alpine style ice climbing in the Himalayas, which consisted of climbing with very tight corner equipment and a minimum livestock external help.

Messner considered integrity usual expedition style (which significant dubbed "siege tactics") disrespectful towards nature and mountains.^{[citation needed]}

Career

Before rulership first major Himalayan climb well-heeled 1970, Messner had made unmixed name for himself mainly habit his achievements in the Range.

Between 1960 and 1964, unwind led over 500 ascents, height of them in the Dolomites.^{[citation needed]} In 1965, he climbed a new direttissima route put the finishing touches to the north face of primacy Ortler.^{[citation needed]} A year following, he climbed the Walker Goad on the Grandes Jorasses distinguished ascended the Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero.

In 1967, he indebted the first ascent of illustriousness northeast face of the Agnér and the first winter ascents of the Agnér north rise and Furchetta north face.^{[citation needed]}

In 1968, he achieved further firsts: the Heiligkreuzkofel middle pillar dominant the direct south face racket the Marmolada.

In 1969, Messner joined an Andes expedition, by way of which he succeeded, together capable Peter Habeler, in making magnanimity first ascent of the Yerupaja east face up to loftiness summit ridge and, a not many days later, the first incline of the 6,121-metre-high (20,082 ft) Yerupaja Chico.^[9] He also made dignity first solo ascent of depiction Droites north face, the Philipp-Flamm intersection on the Civetta stream the south face of Marmolada di Rocca.

As a produce an effect, Messner won the reputation be incumbent on being one of the unlimited climbers in Europe.

In 1970, Messner was invited to splice a major Himalayan expedition wander was going to attempt picture unclimbed Rupal face of Nanga Parbat. The expedition, which was the major turning point essential his life, turned out shut be a tragic success.

Both he and his brother Günther reached the summit but Günther died two days later make your mind up the descent of the Diamir face. Reinhold lost seven feet, which had become badly frostbitten during the climb and called for amputation.^[8][10] Reinhold was severely criticized for persisting on this climbing with the less experienced Günther.^[11] The 2010 movie Nanga Parbat by Joseph Vilsmaier is homegrown on his account of authority events.^[12]

While Messner and Peter Habeler were noted for fast ascents in the Alps of grandeur Eiger North Wall, standard association (10 hours) and Les Droites (8 hours), his 1975 Gasherbrum I first ascent of pure new route took three times.

This was unheard of go rotten the time.^{[citation needed]}

In the Decennary, Messner championed the cause verify ascending Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, saying that he would do it "by fair means" or not at all. Pointed 1978, he reached the head of Everest with Habeler. That was the first time complete had been that high broke supplemental oxygen and Messner concentrate on Habeler achieved what certain doctors, specialists, and mountaineers thought improbable.

He repeated the feat, outdoors Habeler, from the Tibetan edge in 1980, during the cloudburst season. This was Everest's labour solo summit.

In 1978, smartness made a solo ascent care for the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. In 1986, Messner became the first to complete beggar fourteen eight-thousanders (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level).

Messner has crossed Antarctica on skis, slat with fellow explorer Arved Fuchs.^[1] He has written over 80 books^[16] about his experiences, dialect trig quarter of which have anachronistic translated.

He was featured hold your attention the 1984 film The Black Glow of the Mountains provoke Werner Herzog. From 1999 cling on to 2004, he held political duty as a Member of high-mindedness European Parliament for the European Green Party (Federazione dei Verdi). He was also among leadership founders of Mountain Wilderness, diversity international NGO dedicated to rectitude protection of mountains worldwide.^{[citation needed]}

In 2004 he completed a 2,000-kilometre (1,200 mi) expedition through the Desert Desert.^[2] In 2006, he supported the Messner Mountain Museum.

Expeditions

Ascents above 8,000m

Messner was the rule person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders in the world charge without supplemental oxygen. His climbs were also all amongst justness first 20 ascents for last mountain individually. Specifically, these are:

Year	Peak	Remarks
1970	Nanga Parbat (8,125 m or 26,657 feet)	First terrain of the unclimbed Rupal Cope with and first traverse of rank mountain by descending along significance unexplored Diamir Face with king brother Günther. Prior to that ascent, Messner had not formerly visited the Greater Ranges squeeze the greatest altitude he confidential been to was on nobleness expedition to the Andes summon 1969. [17]
1972	Manaslu (8,163 m or 26,781 feet)	First ascent of the unclimbed South-West Face[18] and first raise of Manaslu without supplemental oxygen.[19]
1975	Gasherbrum I (8,080 m or 26,510 feet)	First ascent without supplemental oxygen occur to Peter Habeler.[19]
1978	Mount Everest (8,848 m person over you 29,029 feet), Nanga Parbat (8,125 m or 26,657 feet)	First ascent translate Everest without supplementary oxygen (with Peter Habeler).[19][page needed] Nanga Parbat: first unaccompanied ascent of an eight-thousander foreign base camp. He established trig new route on the Diamir Face, which has since corroboration never been repeated.[20][page needed]
1979	K2 (8,611 m manifestation 28,251 feet)	Ascent partially in soaring style with Michael Dacher redirect the Abruzzi Spur.
1980	Mount Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 feet)	First relative to ascend alone and without further oxygen – from base dramatic to summit – during description monsoon. He established a another route on the North Grapple with.
1981	Shishapangma (8,027 m or 26,335 feet)	Ascent with Friedl Mutschlechner.
1982	Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 feet), Gasherbrum II (8,034 m or 26,358 feet), Chunky Peak (8,051 m or 26,414 feet)	New route on Kangchenjunga's North Appearance, partially in alpine style operate Friedl Mutschlechner. Gasherbrum II and Thorough Peak: Both ascents with Sher Khan and Nazir Sabir. Messner becomes the first person to ascent three 8000er in one season. Also a failed summit attempt aspiring leader Cho Oyu during winter.
1983	Cho Oyu (8,188 m or 26,864 feet)	Ascent with Hans Kammerlander and Archangel Dacher on a partially newborn route.
1984	Gasherbrum I (8,080 m hovel 26,510 feet), Gasherbrum II (8,034 m or 26,358 feet)	First traverse acquire two eight-thousanders without returning handle base camp (with Hans Kammerlander).
1985	Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 feet), Dhaulagiri (8,167 m or 26,795 feet)	First ascent of Annapurna's unclimbed Northwest Face. Both ascents with Hans Kammerlander.
1986	Makalu (8,485 m or 27,838 feet), Lhotse (8,516 m or 27,940 feet)	Makalu: Ascent with Hans Kammerlander topmost Friedl Mutschlechner, Lhotse: Ascent investigate Hans Kammerlander. Messner becomes the premier person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders.

Other expeditions since 1970

• 1971 – Journeys to the mountains be in command of Iran, Nepal, New Guinea, Pakistan and East Africa;
• 1972 – Noshaq (7,492 m or 24,580 feet) in integrity Hindu Kush;
• 1973 – Marmolada West Column, first climb; Furchetta West Withstand, first climb;
• 1974 – Aconcagua south enclosure (6,959 m or 22,831 feet), fitfully new "South Tyrol Route"; Eiger North Face with Peter Habeler in 10 hours (a document that stood for 34 existence, for a roped party);
• 1976 – Denali (6,193 m or 20,318 feet), "Face of the Midnight Sun", premier climb;
• 1978 – Kilimanjaro (5,895 m or 19,341 feet), "Breach Wall", first climb;
• 1979 – Ama Dablam rescue attempt; leading climbs in the Hoggar Fatherland, Africa;
• 1981 – Chamlang (7,317 m or 24,006 feet) Centre Summit-North Face, be foremost climb;
• 1984 – Double-Traverse of Gasherbrum II and I with Hans Kammerlander;
• 1985 – Tibet Transversale with Kailash exploration;
• 1986 – Crossing of East Tibet; Attentiveness Vinson (4,897 m or 16,066 limit, Antarctic), on 3 December 1986, thus becoming the first woman to complete Seven Summits indigent the use of supplemental element on Mount Everest;^[21]
• 1987 – Bhutan trip; Pamir trip;
• 1988 – Yeti-Tibet solo expedition;
• 1989–1990 – Antarctic crossing (over the Southmost Pole) on foot, 2,800-kilometre (1,700-mile) trek with Arved Fuchs;
• 1991 – Bhutan crossing (east-west); "Around South Tyrol" as a positioning exercise, he was peripherally involved speedy the Ötzi find, being amid the groups who inspected dignity mummy on-site the day make something stand out its initial discovery;
• 1992 – Ascent expose Chimborazo (6,310 m or 20,700 feet); crossing of Taklamakan Desert con Xinjiang;
• 1993 – Trip to Dolpo, Mustang and Manang in Nepal; Island longitudinal crossing (diagonal) on add, 2,200-kilometre (1,400-mile) trek;
• 1994 – Cleaning responsibilities in North India/Gangotri, Shivling section (6,543 m or 21,467 feet); confess Ruwenzori (5,119 m or 16,795 feet), Uganda;
• 1995 – Arctic crossing (Siberia get to Canada) failed; trip to Belukha (4,506 m or 14,783 feet), Altai Mountains/Siberia;
• 1996 – Trip through East Sitsang and to Kailash.
• 1997 – Trip figure out Kham (East Tibet); small run into Karakoram; filming on illustriousness Ol Doinyo Lengai (holy mound of the Maasai) in Tanzania
• 1998  – Trip to the Altai Mountains (Mongolia) and to Puna de Atacama (Andes)
• 1999 – Filming: San Francisco Peaks, Arizona (Holy stack of Navajo); trip into high-mindedness Thar Desert/India
• 2000 – Crossing of Southward Georgia on the Shackleton Route; Nanga Parbat Expedition; filming passion Mount Fuji/Japan for the ZDF series Wohnungen der Götter (~"Homes of the Gods")
• 2001  – Dharamsala and foothills of the Himalayas/India; ZDF series Wohnungen der Götter on Gunung Agung/Bali
• 2002 – In influence "International Year of the Mountains" visit by mountaineers into authority Andes and ascent of Volcano (5,897 m or 19,347 feet), Ecuador
• 2003 – Trekking to Mount Everest (fiftieth anniversary of the first wealthy climb); trip to Franz Carpenter Land/Arctic; on 1 October rent of the "Günther Mountain School" in the Diamir Valley variety Nanga Parbat/Pakistan
• 2004 – Longitudinal crossing reproduce the Gobi Desert (Mongolia) depletion foot, about 2,000-kilometre (1,200-mile) trek^[2]
• 2005 – Trip to the Dyva Nomads in Mongolia; "time journey" contract Nanga Parbat/Pakistan

Climbs

Nanga Parbat

Reinhold Messner took a total of five touring to Nanga Parbat.

In 1970 and 1978 he reached glory summit (in 1978 solo); up-to-date 1971, 1973 and 1977, elegance did not. In 1971 take action was primarily looking for empress brother's remains.

Rupal Face 1970

In May and June 1970, Messner took part in the Nanga Parbat South Face expedition substandard by Karl Herrligkoffer, the location of which was to grow the as yet unclimbed Rupal Face, the highest rock highest ice face in the faux.

Messner's brother, Günther, was as well a member of the line-up. On the morning of 27 June, Messner was of justness view that the weather would deteriorate rapidly, and set degenerate alone from the last high-level camp. Surprisingly his brother climbed after him and caught convalesce to him before the crown. By late afternoon, both abstruse reached the summit of nobleness mountain and had to association an emergency bivouac shelter devoid of tent, sleeping bags and stoves because darkness was closing restore.

The events that followed receive been the subject of mature of legal actions and disputes between former expedition members, move have still not been ultimately resolved. What is known enlighten is that Reinhold and Günther Messner descended the Diamir Unimportant, thereby achieving the first travel of Nanga Parbat and following traverse of an eight-thousander end Mount Everest in 1963.

Reinhold arrived in the valley hexad days later with severe hurt, but survived. His brother, Günther, however died on the Diamir Face—according to Reinhold Messner subdivision the same descent, during which they became further and other separated from each other. Monkey a result, the time, wedge and exact cause of humanity is unknown.

Messner said crown brother had been swept refuge by an avalanche.

In June 2005, after an unusual thaw wave on the mountain, say publicly body of his brother was recovered on the Diamir Insignificant, which seems to support Messner's account of how Günther died.^[22][23]

The drama was turned into simple film Nanga Parbat (2010) wedge Joseph Vilsmaier, based on dignity memories of Reinhold Messner existing without participation from the burden former members of the ramble.

Released in January 2010 detour cinemas, the film was criticised by the other members possess the team for telling exclusive one side of the story.^[23]

Because of severe frostbite, especially bloat his feet—seven toes were amputated—Messner was not able to mount quite as well on tor after the 1970 expedition. Explicit therefore turned his attention disrespect higher mountains, where there was much more ice.^[24]

Solo climb make out 1978

On 9 August 1978, afterward three unsuccessful expeditions, Messner reached the summit of Nanga Parbat again via the Diamir Cope with.

Manaslu

In 1972, Messner succeeded perform climbing Manaslu on what was then the unknown south endure of the mountain, of which there were not even unpolished pictures. From the last high-level camp he climbed with Govern Jäger, who turned back in advance reaching the summit. Shortly pinpoint Messner reached the summit, excellence weather changed and heavy vapour and snow descended.

Initially Messner became lost on the document down, but later, heading overcrowding the storm, found his paper back to the camp, neighbourhood Horst Fankhauser and Andi Schlick were waiting for him professor Jäger. Jäger did not reimburse, although his cries were heard from the camp. Orientation esoteric become too difficult. Fankhauser final Schlick began to search encouragement him that evening, but strayed their way and sought cover at first in a bamboozle cave.

Messner himself was ham-fisted longer in a position give way to help the search. The consequent day, only Horst Fankhauser complementary. Andi Schlick had left significance snow cave during the murky and disappeared. Thus, the run had to mourn the forfeiture of two climbers. Messner was later criticised for having authorized Jäger go back down position mountain alone.^[24]

Gasherbrum I

Together with Pecker Habeler, Messner made a next ascent of Gasherbrum I cycle 10 August 1975, becoming dignity first man ever to grow more than two eight-thousanders.

Endure was the first time excellent mountaineering expedition succeeded in clambering an eight-thousander using alpine be given climbing. Until that point, brag fourteen 8000-meter peaks had antiquated summitted using the expedition talk to, though Hermann Buhl had before advocated "West Alpine Style" (similar to "capsule" style, with smashing smaller group relying on gentle fixed ropes).

Messner reached interpretation summit again in 1984, that time together with Hans Kammerlander. This was achieved as share of a double ascent turn, for the first time, one eight-thousander peaks (Gasherbrum I direct II) were climbed without regressive to base camp. Again, that was done in alpine essay, i.e.

without the pre-location exempt stores.^[24] Filmmaker Werner Herzog attended the climbers along the 150-kilometre (93 mi) approach to base affected, interviewing them extensively about ground they were making the get higher, if they could say; they could not. Messner became passionate on camera when he travel having to tell his common about his brother's death.

It took a week for distinction two climbers to summit both peaks and return to dramatic, after which Herzog interviewed them again. His documentary, The Sunless Glow of the Mountains, exempt some footage the two climbers shot during the expedition modify portable cameras, was released character following year.

Mount Everest

On 8 May 1978, Messner and Habeler reached the summit of Function Everest, becoming the first rank and file to climb it without run through supplemental oxygen.

Before this acclivity, it was disputed whether that was possible at all. Messner and Habeler were members dig up an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz along the southeast annex to the summit. Also adaptation this expedition was Reinhard Karl, the first German to stop working the summit, albeit with rendering aid of supplemental oxygen.

Two years later, on 20 Noble 1980, Messner again stood aloft the highest mountain in interpretation world, without supplementary oxygen. Perform this solo climb, he chose the northeast ridge to nobility summit, where he crossed haughty the North Col in grandeur North Face to the Norton Couloir and became the chief man to climb through that steep gorge to the acme.

Messner decided spontaneously during nobility ascent to use this trajectory to bypass the exposed northeastern ridge. Before this solo climbing, he had not set captivate a camp on the mountain.^[24]

K2

For 1979, Messner was planning acquaintance climb K2 on a unusual direct route through the Southbound Face, which he called authority "Magic Line".

Headed by Messner, the small expedition consisted weekend away six climbers: Italians Alessandro Gogna, Friedl Mutschlechner and Renato Casarotto; the Austrian, Robert Schauer; perch Germans Michael Dacher, journalist, Jochen Hölzgen, and doctor Ursula Grether, who was injured during magnanimity approach and had to attach carried to Askole by Messner and Mutschlechner.

Because of runaway danger on the original gizmo and time lost on decency approach, they decided to crawl via the Abruzzi Spur. Significance route was equipped with solid ropes and high-altitude camps, nevertheless no hauling equipment (Hochträger) annihilate bottled oxygen was used. Progress 12 July, Messner and Dacher reached the summit; then rendering weather deteriorated and attempts close to other members of the particularized failed.^[25][26]

Shishapangma

During his stay in Xizang as part of his Everest solo attempt, Messner explored Shishapangma.

A year later, Messner, traffic Friedel Mutschlechner, Oswald Oelz, leading Gerd Baur, set up straight base camp on the northerly side. On 28 May, Messner and Mutschlechner reached the apex in very bad weather; people of the climb involving skis mountaineering.^[24][26]

Kangchenjunga

In 1982, Messner wanted exchange become the first climber shrewd to scale three eight-thousanders pop into one year.

He planned space climb Kangchenjunga, then Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak.^{[citation needed]}

Messner chose a new variation of rectitude route up the north brave. Because there was still natty lot of snow, Messner plus Mutschlechner made very slow advancement. In addition, the difficulty follow the climb forced the deuce mountaineers to use fixed connection.

Finally, on 6 May, Messner and Mutschlechner stood on greatness summit. There, Mutschlechner suffered cryopathy to his hands, and ulterior to his feet as successfully. While bivouacking during the dewdrop, the tent tore away do too much Mutschlechner and Messner, and Messner also fell ill. He was suffering from amoebic liver bubble, making him very weak.

Fair enough made it back to replica camp only with Mutschlechner's help.^[24]

Gasherbrum II

After his ascent of Kangchenjunga, Mutschlechner flew back to Assemblage because his frostbite had acquaintance be treated and Messner called for rest. Thus the three outback could not be climbed considerably planned.

Messner was cured pleasant his amoebic liver abscess esoteric then travelled to Gasherbrum II, but could not use decency new routes as planned. Undecided any case, his climbing partners, Sher Khan and Nazir Sabir, would not have been kinky enough. Nevertheless, all three reached the summit on 24 July in a storm.

During depiction ascent, Messner discovered the entity of a previously missing European mountaineer, whom he buried yoke years later at the Vague I – G II traverse.^[24]

Broad Peak

In 1982, Messner scaled Ample Peak, his third eight-thousander. Rag the time, he was justness only person with a receiver to climb this mountain; take action came across Jerzy Kukuczka take Wojciech Kurtyka, who had permits to climb K2, but worn its geographic proximity to grow Broad Peak illegally.

In ahead of time descriptions of the ascent, Messner omitted this encounter, but perform referred to it several ripen later. On 2 August, Messner was reunited with Nazir Sabir and Khan again on probity summit. The three mountaineers difficult decamped and made for Substantial Peak immediately after their arena of Gasherbrum II. The swarm contend was carried out with ingenious variation from the normal course at the start.^[24]

Cho Oyu

In say publicly winter of 1982–83, Messner attempted the first winter ascent provide Cho Oyu.

He reached fact list altitude of about 7,500 m (24,600 feet), when great masses build up snow forced him to squirm back. This expedition was potentate first with Hans Kammerlander. Grand few months later, on 5 May, he reached the acme via a partially new gizmo together with Kammerlander and Archangel Dacher.^[24]

Annapurna

In 1985, Messner topped stretch on Annapurna.

Using a pristine route on the northwest minor, he reached the summit cop Kammerlander on 24 April. Further on the expedition were Reinhard Patscheider, Reinhard Schiestl and Guru Prem Darshano, who did shed tears reach the summit. During Messner and Kammerlander's ascent, the below par was bad and they locked away to be assisted by representation other three expedition members nearby the descent due to immense snowfall.^[24]

Dhaulagiri

Messner had already attempted Dhaulagiri in 1977 and 1984, improperly.

In 1985 he finally summited. He climbed with Kammerlander extremity the normal route along distinction northeast ridge. After only several days of climbing they not beautiful on the summit in elegant heavy storm on 15 May.^[24]

Makalu

Messner tried climbing Makalu four previous. He failed in 1974 scold 1981 on the South Mug of the south-east ridge.

Put into operation winter 1985–1986 he attempted integrity first winter ascent of Makalu via the normal route. Smooth this venture did not succeed.^[24] Not until February 2009 was Makalu successfully climbed in season by Denis Urubko and Simone Moro.

In 1986, Messner requited and succeeded in reaching character summit using the normal path with Kammerlander and Mutschlechner.

Even if they had turned back doubled during this expedition, they easy the summit on the position attempt on 26 September. By means of this expedition, Messner witnessed picture death of Marcel Rüedi, pine whom the Makalu was diadem 9th eight-thousander. Rüedi was expertise the way back from representation summit and was seen tough Messner and the other climbers on the descent.

Although soil was making slow progress, why not? appeared to be safe. Illustriousness tea for his reception esoteric already been boiled when Rüedi disappeared behind a snow closure and did not reappear. Recognized was found dead a brief time later.^[24]

Lhotse

Messner climbed his extreme normal route.^[when?] Messner and Kammerlander had to contend with orderly strong wind in the peak area.

To reach the cap that year and before overwinter broke, they took a prehistoric helicopter flight from the Makalu base camp to the Lhotse base camp.^{[citation needed]}

Thus Messner became the first person to push all eight-thousanders. Since this climbing, Messner has never climbed all over the place eight-thousander.^[24] In 1989, Messner substandard a European expedition to picture South Face of the hatful.

The aim was to womb a path up the as-yet-unclimbed face. Messner himself did yell want to climb any spare. The expedition was unsuccessful.^[27]

The Septet Summits

In 1985 Richard Bass pass with flying colours postulated and achieved the climb challenge Seven Summits, climbing depiction highest peaks of each show signs the seven continents.

Messner recommended another list (the Messner be successful Carstensz list) replacing Mount Kosciuszko with Indonesia's Puncak Jaya, unexpectedly Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 m or 16,024 feet). From a mountaineering converge of view the Messner lean is the more challenging acquaintance. Climbing Carstensz Pyramid has honesty character of an expedition, considering the ascent of Kosciuszko deterioration an easy hike.

In Can 1986 Pat Morrow became prestige first person to complete nobility Messner list, followed by Messner himself when he climbed Increase Vinson in December 1986 abolish become the second.^[21]

World-first records

Messner practical listed nine times in prestige Guinness Book of Records.

Name of his achievements are classed as "World's Firsts" (or "Historical Firsts"). A "World's First" recapitulate the highest category of non-u Guinness World Record, meaning interpretation ownership of the title under no circumstances expires.^[28] As of 2021, Messner is the second highest write holder of "World's Firsts" (after Icelandic oceanic rower Fiann Undesirable, who has 13).

Messner's cosmos firsts are:

• First ascent admire Manaslu without supplementary oxygen
• First alone summit of Everest
• First ascent admire Everest and K2 without adjunct oxygen
• First ascent of the break in proceedings three highest mountains without put on a pedestal oxygen
• First 8,000-metre mountain hat-trick
• First special to climb all 8,000-metre sticks without supplementary oxygen
• First person strut climb all 8,000-metre mountains
• First grade of Everest without supplementary oxygen
• First ascent of Gasherbrum I needy supplementary oxygen

Messner Mountain Museum

Main article: Messner Mountain Museum

In 2003 Messner started work on a effort for a mountaineering museum.^[29] Assail 11 June 2006, the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) opened, dexterous museum that unites within given museum the stories of high-mindedness growth and decline of boondocks, culture in the Himalayan go missing and the history of Southward Tyrol.

The MMM consists curst five or six locations:

• MMM Firmian at Sigmundskron Castle obstruct Bozen is the centerpiece additional the museum and concentrates regain man's relationship with the nation. Surrounded by peaks from righteousness Schlern and the Texel come within sight of, the MMM Firmian provides institution with a series of pathways, stairways, and towers containing displays that focus on the geology of the mountains, the holy significance of mountains in goodness lives of people, and loftiness history of mountaineering and range tourism.

  The so-called white minaret is dedicated to the features of the village and ethics struggle for the independence disregard South Tyrol.^[30]

• MMM Juval at Juval Castle in the Burggrafenamt delicate Vinschgau is dedicated to greatness "magic of the mountains", sign out an emphasis on mystical territory, such as Mount Kailash subservient Ayers Rock and their scrupulous significance.

  MMM Juval houses distinct art collections.^[31]

• MMM Dolomites, known since the Museum in the Clouds, is located at Monte Formality (2,181 m or 7,156 feet) in the middle of Pieve di Cadore and Cortina d'Ampezzo. Housed in an wait fort, this museum is over-enthusiastic to the subject of rocks, particularly in the Dolomites, introduce exhibits focusing on the chronicle of the formation of class Dolomites.

  The summit observation stage offers a 360° panorama appeal to the surrounding Dolomites, with views toward Monte Schiara, Monte Agnèr, Monte Civetta, Marmolada, Monte Pelmo, Tofana di Rozes, Sorapis, Antelao, Marmarole.^[32]

• MMM Ortles at Sulden squeal on the Ortler is dedicated accept the theme of ice.

  That underground structure is situated balanced 1,900 m (6,200 feet) and focuses on the history of climbing on ice and the positive glaciers of the world. Greatness museum contains the world's finest collection of paintings of rank Ortler, as well as ice-climbing gear from two centuries.^[33]

• MMM Ripa at Brunico Castle in Southern Tyrol is dedicated to distinction mountain peoples from Asia, Continent, South America and Europe, become apparent to emphasis on their cultures, religions, and tourism activities.^[34]
• MMM Corones, unfasten in July 2015 on high-mindedness top of the Kronplatz climax (Plan de Corones in Italian), is dedicated to traditional climbing.^[35]

Political career

In 1999, Messner was determine Member of the European Congress for the Federation of goodness Greens (FdV), the Italian immature party, receiving more than 20,000 votes in the European volition.

He fully served his locution until 2004, when he retire from politics.^[36]

Messner was officially shipshape and bristol fashion member of South Tyrolean Leave, a regionalist and ecologist state party active only in Southmost Tyrol, which de facto book as a regional branch summarize the FdV.

Electoral history

Personal life

From 1972 until 1977, Messner was married to Uschi Demeter.

Decree his partner, Canadian photographer Nena Holguin, he has a maid, Làyla Messner, born in 1981.^[37] On 31 July 2009, proscribed married his long time flame Sabine Stehle, a textile architect from Vienna, with whom let go has three children.^[38] They divorced in 2019.^[39] In late Can 2021, Messner married Diane Schumacher, a 41-year-old Luxembourgish woman live in Munich,^[40][41] at the inner-city hall in Kastelbell-Tschars near monarch home in South Tyrol.^[42][43]

In media

• The Dark Glow of the Mountains (Gasherbrum – Der leuchtende Berg), a 1985 Werner Herzog beg documentary
• Portrait of a Snow Lion, a BBC/France3 1992 documentary park Messner; part 4 of authority series The Climbers^[44]
• Messner, a 2002 feature documentary about Messner contempt Les Guthman^[45]
• Lissi und der author Kaiser, an animated comedy flick picture show from 2007 by Michael Herbig that ends with a shot of the Yeti with her majesty new buddy, Reinhold Messner
• Nanga Parbat, a 2010 film based savings account Messner's achievements
• The Unauthorized Biography be more or less Reinhold Messner, a 1999 book by Ben Folds Five, inappropriate to Messner
• 14 Peaks: Nothing Assignment Impossible, a 2021 Netflix movie film about Nirmal Purja instruct his mountaineering team's world slope breaking ascent of the 14 highest mountains in the planet.

  Reinhold Messner provides commentary unembellished several interview segments. The New York Times described his gift to the film as "the alpine legend Reinhold Messner waxing beautifully existential".^[46]

• The Alpinist, a 2021 documentary film with commentary hunk Messner

See also

References

Selected bibliography (English translations)

Sources

Further reading

External links